Punk

late 70s

The punk subculture is a youth movement based around aggressive genre of punk rock music,which first emerge in the United States and the United Kingdom in the mid-1970s.Early punk fashions intended to appear as confrontational, shocking and rebellious as possible.This style of punk dress was significantly different from what would later be considered the basic punk look.In general Punks stand out with outrageous hair styles in vibrant, unnatural hues,ripped clothing held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape,safety pins and razor blades that are used as jewelry.Punks tend to adorn their favorite rocker jacket or vest with pin-back buttons and patches of bands they love and ideas they believe in, telling the world around them a little bit about who they are.In contrast to punks who believe the fashion is a central part of the punk subculture, there are some punks who are decidedly "anti-fashion," arguing that music and/or ideology should define punk, not fashion.Current factions of the punk subculture have different clothing habits, although there's often crossover between the different subgroups in terms of style.


Punks.Picture taken in The West End, London in June 1972.

Anarchist Fashion

Vivienne Westwood is associated with the punk subculture in Britain in 1970s.She is linked with the Sex Pistols via Malcolm McLaren and their SEX boutique in London during the 1970s.Their early designs captured the essence of street wear during that era, especially the punk youth subculture.Westwood contribute to an aesthetic that brings a subcultural style to the forefront of fashion.
Images: Vivienne Westwood and a poster for the Sex Pistols' Anarchy in the UK Photo PA.

Vivienne Westwood &Malcolm McLaren "Bondage" suit, 1976 Bondage straps between the knees, which were an extension of the sado-masochistic look that they promoted at the time for its shock value.The suit became one of iconic garments of punk style, one that is still in production to this day.





Metal studs, PVC, tartan and fishnets strike a rebellious chord of Punks were present in Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2007 collection .

Hip Hop

80s


Hip Hop emerged in the ghettos of the Bronx, New York in the 1970s, where block parties became common among African-American youth and was accompanied by rap music, break-dancing and graffiti artists.Although rap music was originally more a part of the social culture than anything overtly political, its values, narratives and structure were often directly opposing the logic of dominant white middle-class western culture.Though the movement started out in the African-American comunities, Hip-Hop music,culture and fashion has crossed social and ethnic barriers and has spread to all other parts of the world.

Prominent elements of hip hop street wear are sportswear, oversized –extra large garments such as baggy sagging jeans, T-shirts and bomber jackets, heavy gold jewelry, baseball caps and bandanas,and also gangsta style clothes.

80s was in the heights of the portable stereo craze.Boomboxes or Ghetto Blasters were held on the shoulder or positioned on a street corner for an impromptu breakdancing. Nas for 'Hip Hop Is Dead'album cover released Dec 19, 2006.


Breakdancer with the boombox.Photo by Nicolas Ferrando.2004



























Bandanas or do-rags have become a fad of the hip hop generation.Graffiti of murdered rap star Tupac Shakur with bandana tied around his head.Lisbon 2007.



Elite members of the hip hop community looked back to the gangsters of the 1930s and 1940s for inspiration.Mafioso influences, especially and primarily inspired by the 1983 remake version of Scarface, became popular in hip hop.Coolio and Snoop-Doggy-Dogg,'The Return of the Gangsta'.Photo by Alessio Pizzicannella 2006.









Heavy Hip hop jewelry is one big fashion statement.Rapper Yung Joc wears diamond jewelry at the 2007 MTV Video Music Awards.Photo: Ethan Miller,Sep 09, 2007.



Hip hop influences in Chanel's Fall 1991 collection and again in Fall 2009.






































John Galliano's Spring 2001.






DSquared2 Spring/Summer 2009 Menswear Hip-Hop style.

Urban Fetishism

Urban Fetishism is a new street trend that incorporates fetish fashion elements into a casual wardrobe.Fetish fashion is a type of clothing usually created to be extreme or provocative and is related to the culture of sexual fetishism and S&M.Urban fetishist's wears fetish garments such as latex and pvc tights or skirts,thigh-high boots,chains and handcuffs not as a declaration to sexual orientation,but purely as a fashion statement.

The following image is from Altamira NYC.October 8, 2008 Urban Fetishism started with uber fashionable homosexuals who began to use the rarely-used leather clothing and other fetish items publicly and as identification and separation from the norm.


Image from Manila Style, August 28, 2008 Guy in in Manilla,Philippines accessorizes with handcuffs.

Pop star Lady-Gaga wears pink latex skirt and latex bra. 1/29/09 Photo: FilmMagic



Kate Moss rocking Urban Fetishist's staple latex leggings,accessorized with high heal boots and S&M belt at the Glastonbury Festival in Pilton, England Saturday June 23, 2007.AP Images

S&M Fetish Items escaping undergrounds to the daylight.







Hussein Chalayan Fall 2009-2010
Burrberry Prorsum Fall 2007

Emo

The roots of emo lie in the 1980s US hardcore punk scene, when some bands pioneered a heart-on-sleeve subgenre known as "emo-core" or "emotional hardcore" characterized by melodic musicianship and expressive, often confessional lyrics.The culture of Emo broke into the mainstream media in the year of 2002.Emos have their own unique style and that is why their look stands out in the crowd. They are experimental in nature and try hair cuts which are distinctive in style such as asymmetrical styles, bold highlights, all done up with jet black hair.
By almost all current standards, EMO clothing is characterized by tight jeans on boys and girls alike, tigh blackt T-shirts which often bear the names of popular rock bands, studded belts, Chuck Taylor All-Stars, belt buckles, skate shoes or some other black shoes.

Image from www.emogothicresimleri.blogspot.com

At their nature the emo representatives are extremely sensitive characters. The psychologists define them as introverts, who don’t want to communicate with the ambient world. Because of that they find a field of manifestation in the poetry.
"It is a largely teenage trend and is characterised by depression, self-injury and suicide" Quote by Daily Mail on emo.04.05.09



Images from www.emo-life.net.












Costume National Homme - Milan Menswear Autumn Winter 2009 10

Costume National Homme - Milan Menswear Autumn Winter 2009 10

Historical Artistic Styles

Relationship between art and fashion extends from ancient times to modern era.Each period offers different interpretations where art and fashion intersect.Inspired by art movements of the past or driven by designers philosophy fashion often becomes an art of its own.

Egyptian

5000 BC to 300 AD

Ancient Egyptian art was created by strict canons and was highly stylized and symbolic.The importance of religion and the belief in the life after death ruled Egyptian art. Egyptian’s believed that their kings were god-like beings on earth. In order to represent the godly character of the royal family artists depicted them taller, paler, and more perfect than ordinary mortals.As clothing was a symbol of status in hierarchical society royal regalia often linked their wearer with the superhuman sphere and pointed towards the heavenly or divine.John Galliano for Dior couture Spring 2004.

Gothic

Gothic art was a late Medieval art movement which began in the mid-12th century and lasted until 16th century.It is in the great churches and cathedrals that the Gothic style was expressed most powerfully.A characteristic of Gothic church architecture is its height with emphasis on verticality,both inside and outside.The skeletal walls were filled with stained glass that transmitted colored light,which intended to create an ethereal realm between heaven and earth.The light and height affirmed God’s majesty,while dwarfed mankind.
Spirals,arches and heights of Gothic cathedrals were adopted in clothing,which appeared in elongated dress silhouette along with extremely tall head wear,and pointy shoes.

Images:Interior view of Coutances' cathedral, department of Manche, France.Cathedral was completed in 1274.Both dresses by Jean Paul Gaultier Spring-Summer Haute Couture 2009.