Historical Draped&Tailored Garments

"Ancient Greek style."The Greeks wore clothes that were basic and simple;most garments originated from a rectangular piece of cloth. The amount of sewing involved was minimal,as the clothes were wrapped or draped.On the left is the chiton with sleeves in a later period and cowl drape at neck line and armholes. In the center - the peplos and its pattern.Right is the chlamys.



The Poncho is commonly associated with Latin American culture,which is essentially a single large sheet of fabric draped over the body, with openings provided for the arms and the head.Originally made out of tight weave to keep the body warm and to protect it from the rain;today ponchos are designed from a variety of materials as fashion items.In the image, Peruvian men wearing a distinctive poncho with characteristic colors, patterns and motifs.



Madame Alix Grès (1903 – 1993)Madame Alix Gres was one of the legends of Paris Couture, mostly known for her “Grecian” inspired gowns. Gres dedicated her whole life to perfecting the art of draping and pleating of cloth into a single gown. Madame Gres used live mannequins when designing and created many of her gowns from silk jersey which she draped and pleated and cut on the bias. In this image, Madame Gres is at the Place Vendome in Paris circa 1938.On the right “Grecian” evening dress, off-white silk jersey ,France, 1965.Photograph:Courtesy of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York




Tailored garments originated in Northern Europe and are dated back to prehistoric times.The image shows typical Scythian apparel consisting of tunics,trousers and short boots, detail from a replica of an electrum vase at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.





This is an example of tailoring that reached heights of imagination in the period between 1750-1795 in European and European-influenced countries.The Formal dress with wide panniers holding the skirts out at the sides.
Image:Court Dress, ca. 1750 British Blue silk taffeta brocaded with silver threadsilk, metallic thread.



In this image Thierry Mugler's signature wasp-like waist tailored jackets with wide padded shoulders. Mugler's designs are consistently body conscious and in extreme proportions,distortions and exaggerations of the human figure.

Photography: Helmut Newton, 1998-1999

The 6 Functions of Dress

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

Image: Lake Western, Siberia, Russia
Brand/Designer Unknown
While fur is considered a controversial piece of clothing in certain cultures, in the dreadful Siberian climate it is the only way to stay warm, as shown in the picture of local men dressed head to toe in fur.

DECORATION

Image source: http://www.peyotepeople.com/
Decoration in the form of face painting is continuously practiced by the Huichol Indians, who are one of the few tribes based in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico that have preserved their customs and beliefs.








CEREMONIAL

Image: 1966, Stonehenge, Wiltshire, UK
Photograph by Austin Underwood
Symbolic clothing and proper attire has always played a major part in various ceremonies as illustrated by this image of Druidic summer solstice celebration still practiced today.



GROUP MEMBERSHIP

Image: Hasidic Orthodox Jewish Members
Williamsburgh Bridge, Brooklyn,NY
Brand/Designer unknown
Certain religious groups believe that attire is an essential part of practicing their religion as portrayed in this image of the Hasidic Orthodox Jewish family dressed in their typical everyday clothing.

GENDER DIFFERENTIATION

Image: JPG quilted skirt
Gender specific clothing has changed throughout history, but skirts today remain strictly a female piece of clothing and are shocking when worn by males, unless it is for ceremonial or traditional purposes.
Quilted skirt, autumn/winter 1985–86
Jean Paul Gaultier (French, b. 1952)
From the Le Charme Conicé de la Bourgeoisie collection
©Photograph by Paolo Roversi









SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT

Image: Mainbocher Corset, Horst P. Horst, 1939
Ever since the Victorian era, the corset has been the quintessential body enhancing clothing that accents the female curves as captured in this seductive Horst P. Horst photograph.The corset designed by Detolle for Mainbocher.